On a blustery autumn day, the gently undulating hills surrounding Rome provided the backdrop for an unexpected gathering. In attendance were wool producers, activists, designers, and even model, actress, and farmer Isabella Rossellini and her daughter, who convened at Ilaria Venturini Fendi’s farm. The purpose was not to laud high fashion, but to reconceive it completely.
Fendi, who tends to 600 sheep at her working guest farm on the outskirts of Rome, highlighted the challenges of wool production in Italy, emphasizing the need for a shift in mindset to reshape economies due to wool often being wasted or burned in Europe and North America.
This gathering marked the inaugural in-person meeting of the World Hope Forum, a network dedicated to demonstrating that wool production can be ethical, local, and circular. The forum aimed to address the grim reality that processing costs of wool often surpass the returns, leading to its improper disposal.
Fendi, renowned for her deep-rooted understanding of luxury as a scion of the famed Italian fashion dynasty, departed from the family business years ago to establish Carmina Campus. This brand, known as “the singing fields,” is founded upon principles of reuse and regeneration.
The event preceded the forthcoming launch of the UN’s International Year of Rangelands and Pastoralists in 2026, emphasizing the critical need to safeguard traditional herding cultures and natural fibers. Additionally, it preceded the initial meeting of the EU Focus Group focusing on sustainable methods to revitalize the European wool value chain.
Among the distinguished guests was Blátnaid Gallagher, the founder of Ireland’s Galway Wool Co-op. The cooperative is dedicated to reviving native Irish wool, which had nearly been eradicated by the influx of cheaper Asian imports masquerading as Irish wool. Gallagher, an EU award recipient for fostering rural community resilience, is advocating for stricter regulations on fiber origin across Europe.
Cynthia Hathaway, a Canadian designer based in the Netherlands, shares Gallagher’s optimism. Hathaway, known for her Wool March initiative, organizes “soft mob walks” with sheep in urban areas to raise awareness about the ecological and cultural significance of wool. She views transhumance, the seasonal migration of flocks, as a time-honored climate solution.
The global textile industry’s reliance on wool has dwindled to less than one percent, leading to the closure of numerous European and North American wool processing facilities. This decline can be attributed to the mass production of wool in countries like China and Australia, which has driven down global prices, rendering it challenging for small-scale producers to compete.
Reina Ovinge, who transitioned from fast fashion to establish the Knit Wit Stable in the Netherlands, laments the minimal returns for farmers and the underutilization of wool in Europe. Ovinge has crafted her own micro-supply chain, involving on-farm shearing, sorting, and subsequent processing in Italy’s renowned wool hub, Biella.
Isabella Rossellini and her daughter Elettra Wiedemann oversee Mama Farm in Brookhaven, N.Y., a sanctuary for endangered heritage sheep and chickens, promoting biodiversity through organic heirloom vegetable cultivation. The farm hosts various activities, including Farm to Fashion, which pairs budding designers with the farm’s heritage wool to create unique sweaters.
Philip Fimmano, the organizer of the World Hope Forum, stresses the importance of sustained long-term investments in such initiatives and advocates for “slowdown money” over traditional startup funding. Matteo Mantellassi, CEO of Manteco, champions the use of recycled wool as a sustainable alternative to virgin fibers, emphasizing its environmental benefits and quality.
By fostering education and collaboration with young designers, Mantellassi aims to amplify the utilization of recycled wool across the textile industry, aligning with a broader push for sustainable textile policies in Europe. The collective efforts of these individuals and organizations underscore a shared commitment to transforming wool production into a circular, ethical, and locally-driven endeavor.